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تبیین نمادهای رمانتی‌سیسم و جنبش هنرها و صنایع دستی در مجموعه پایدار 2018 برند اچاندام | ||
| نشریه هنرهای زیبا: هنرهای تجسمی | ||
| دوره 27، شماره 1، خرداد 1401، صفحه 83-91 اصل مقاله (1.01 M) | ||
| نوع مقاله: مقاله پژوهشی | ||
| شناسه دیجیتال (DOI): 10.22059/jfava.2021.298256.666427 | ||
| نویسندگان | ||
| مریم مونسی سرخه* 1؛ هانیه چوپانی2 | ||
| 1عضو هیأت علمی گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران، ایران. | ||
| 2کارشناس ارشد رشته طراحی پارچه و لباس، گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران، ایران. | ||
| چکیده | ||
| هدف مشترک رمانتی‌سیسم و جنبش هنرها و صنایع دستی «محافظت از طبیعت و بازگشت به آن» است. در واقع، وجه اشتراک میان رمانتیکها و پیروان جنبش هنرها و صنایع دستی را میتوان در طبیعت‌گرایی، ضدخردگرایی و ضدصنعتی بودنشان یافت. رمانتی‌سیسم را میتوان واکنشی احساسی در برابر خردگرایی دانست. از طرف دیگر، جنبش هنرها و صنایع دستی در پی مخالفت با صنعتیسازی و ماشینی شدن زندگی بشر به عرصه ظهور آمد. بنابراین، این پرسش در پژوهش مطرح است که این دو جنبش چگونه و بر اساس چه دیدگاههایی طبیعت را ارج مینهند و مجموعه پایدار سال 2018 برند اچاندام به چه صورت از این دو جنبش در مد پایدار تأثیر پذیرفته است؟ هدف این پژوهش، مروری بر این دو جنبش طبق نظریههای ژان ژاکروسو و ویلیام موریس و نحوه پیوند آن با رویکردهای پایداری بوده و نتایج حاکی از آن است که اچاندام با الهام از خانه کارل و کارین لارسون، جنبش رمانتی‌سیسم در مُد و استفاده از مواد و رویکردهای پایدار توانسته است تأکید بیشتری بر پایداری داشته باشد. در پژوهش حاضر، رمانتی‌سیسم و جنبش هنرها و صنایع دستی باتوجه به مجموعه پایدار 2018 اچاندام به روش توصیفی تحلیلی و با استفاده از منابع کتابخانهای و الکترونیکی مطالعه شده است. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها | ||
| رمانتی‌سیسم؛ هنرها و صنایع دستی؛ مد؛ برند اچاندام | ||
| عنوان مقاله [English] | ||
| "A Study of the Romanticism and Arts and Crafts Movement Symbols in the H&M's Conscious Exclusive 2018 Collection" | ||
| نویسندگان [English] | ||
| Maryam Mounesi Sorkheh1؛ Hanieh Choopani2 | ||
| 1Faculty member of Textile and Fashion Design Department, Faculty of Art, Alzahra University, Tehran, Iran | ||
| 2 Master of Textile and Fashion Design, Department of Textile and Fashion Design, Faculty of Art, Alzahra University, Tehran, Iran | ||
| چکیده [English] | ||
| Mass production and demand growth have led to producing a huge volume of clothing and items that are environmentally harmful and have relatively irreparable consequences. The art movements' impacts on fashion industry have caused a shift from the massive production to the aesthetic approaches and emphasis on quality against quantity. As fashion in different ages has been influenced by arts, movements, social and cultural events, the main aim of this research is to consider the H&M's sustainable approaches for the realization of the 'return to nature' principle and the two Art movement's influence against rationalism and mass production. Romanticism is an emotional response to rationalism, and the Arts and Crafts movement manifested to oppose the industrialization of human lifestyle and was strengthened by the theories of John Ruskin and William Morris. The romantics were looking for a way to escape from mechanization and materialism in life, and were considering nature as the human spirit. The members of the Arts and Crafts movement chose a style that was widely known and reflected the principles of the movement: originality of the materials, simple forms, revival of native traditions and natural motifs and designs. Interestingly, sustainable fashion could be related to the values appreciated by the movements. The common feature of the movements is the utopian civilization of Rousseau and Morris, and the important attributes of this civilization include the human spirit, spiritual values and appreciating nature. In the research, we proposed how Romanticism and the Arts and Crafts movement appreciate nature and have influenced the H&M's Conscious Exclusive 2018 Collection in achieving the sustainable fashion approaches. We aim to review the theories of Jean-Jacques Rousseau and William Morris, and the way they are being related to the sustainable fashion approaches and sustainability. Since 2011, the H&M group has offered the Conscious Exclusive collection annually to achieve its sustainable fashion goals and the main concept of the collection is "good for the planet, people and wallet". Considering the concept, it can be found that Romanticism and the house of Carl and Karin Larsson has been intelligently chosen as the source of inspiration for the 2018 collection. Although H&M is a mass production company, it considers aesthetic in fashion productions. Some features of Romanticism and the Arts and crafts movement can be seen in the H&M's CE 2018 collection. The theories of Rousseau and Morris, the features of Romanticism and Art and Crafts, and their influence in the fashion history have been studied in the paper. After that, the fashion items of the H& M's CE 2018 collection have been classified in quest of the features of Romanticism and the Arts and Crafts movement to realize that how the H&M group has been inspired by the above-mentioned movements. This article is focused on the common features between Romanticism and the Arts and Crafts movement, including the appreciation of nature, the human spirit and spiritual values; the nature conservancy, return to the natural simplicity of life, and the opposition to the industrialization of human lifestyle. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها [English] | ||
| romanticism style, Arts and Crafts movement, sustainable fashion, H &؛ M collection | ||
| مراجع | ||
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استراترن، پل (1396)، آشنایی با ژان ژاک روسو. ترجمه کاظم فیروزمند، تهران: نشر مرکز.
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